Avondrood, Franschhoek

South Africa is a country
of tremendous entrepreneurial energy
and when this is combined
with the tradition of hospitality
you find wonderful places to stay.

This is Avondrood, a small Guesthouse
in Franschhoek, just outside Cape Town.
It is a beautiful Victorian house built in 1870
owned and run by Caine J. Herr and Justin Mitchell,
and to me it encapsulates the exciting potential
of development through tourism in South Africa.

The standard of accommodation is very high:
bedroom, bathroom, breakfast all difficult to fault
I think that the bed was almost as comfortable
as my own bed at home. Praise indeed.

The outstanding restaurants of Franschhoek
are within walking distance and
there are enough world class vineyards
for the most dedicated wine buff.
Some are large estates with export markets
and some are smaller boutique vineyards
where the wine is sold in the farm restaurant.

Franschhoek has worked hard to increase
the activities for tourists around the town
including the unique tram route to local vineyards.
When we discussed the investment in the area
which is apparent since we visited two years ago
it is clear that the local tourism board
is both pro-active and innovative,
working in partnership with businesses,
creating a thriving economy.

Each of the vineyards, restaurants and hotels
represent training and employment opportunities
so that young people from disadvantaged communities
are becoming chefs, sommeliers, winemakers.
Franschhoek is the potential of South Africa in microcosm
and other towns are watching and learning.

Justin and his wife offer a courteous hospitality
which creates a peaceful and relaxing house.
Guests arrive back early so that they can
spend time in the pool or just lie on the loungers,
read a book, drink a glass of chilled wine
and watch the mountain glow red at sunset.

Many thanks to Justin, his lovely family,
and the Avondrood team that work so hard
to make guests feel welcome and comfortable.

We didn't want to leave.
Another day or two relaxing in the garden
would have suited me just fine.
Or maybe three or four.

We will just have to go back.
As soon as possible.

Disclaimer:
We stayed at Avondrood as tourists,
paid for our accommodation ourselves
and did not receive any special treatment
or payment for this blog post.

On the Boardwalk

De Hoop Nature reserve.

A pristine environment of sand dunes, fynbos and freshwater lagoon. In the spring the Southern Right whales swim close to the shore but now in the autumn there are only gulls and sea spray. The beach seems drab and uninteresting in the grey evening light until you look closely and see delicate pink shells, fluorescent green algae, bright blue jellyfish and seaweed the colour of amethyst stones. If you are lucky, low angles of light will illuminate the crests of the waves and the beauty of it will hurt your heart a little. You have to be patient, look carefully and ignore the people waiting, impatiently.

Lunch at Tokara

On our last day in South Africa
we drove from Franschhoek to the airport
and stopped for lunch at the Tokara vineyard.

deconstructed sushi

It was the last in a series of spectacular meals,
and we enjoyed every delicious mouthful.

[A strict regime is required
now we are back at home.]

grilled line fish with saffron foam

Tokara specialises in contemporary cuisine
and there is a strong Japanese influence:
sushi rice, fresh fish, oriental seasoning
and lightly steamed vegetables.

roast duck with sushi rice

We sat at the window, looking down the valley
talking about our wonderful holiday,
It was only eight days since we landed
but we had squeezed a lot into
the short time that we were there.

The most important event was Graduation Day
and if you look through the trees
you can see the university campus
where MasterM studied for the last four years.

chocolate pavé with orange ice cream

So many photographs to organise,
so many memories.

Robben Island

Robben Island is the bleakest place
that I have ever been.

It was a place of banishment
for lepers and criminals
for centuries before it was
a prison for political activists.


You are driven around the island
and your senses are assaulted
by grim grey buildings,
wind-twisted low bushes
and the limestone quarry
where manacled prisoners laboured.

There is no colour, no sound.


In the maximum security jail
a former political prisoner
acts as your guide to the buildings.

It is a great privilege to meet
these men, imprisoned for their beliefs,
who all wear sunglasses
because their eyes were damaged
by the glare of light
in the limestone quarry.


Sobu Sokwe was only 20
when he was imprisoned for membership
of the African National Congress.
He had been on Robben Island for 5 years
when he was released in 1989,
the same year that MasterM was born.

He stood in the middle of the dormitory
detailing with great dignity
the brutal routine of prison.


He also explained how the structure of the ANC
created a community within the prison,
supporting the youngest prisoners,
educating each other
and understanding political developments
in the changing world outside
from scraps of smuggled newspaper.


He took us to Nelson Mandela's cell
shown as it was in the 1960s
with only a bucket and sleeping mat.

It was impossible not to be moved.


All along the corridors there were other cells
and each one had a story,
and the spirit of a courageous man.


Our guide had told us
that the kennels for guard dogs
were twice the size of the cells
and it seemed extraordinary
that human dignity could overcome
such physical and emotional deprivation
and create a new nation
striving for equality and opportunity.


This cairn is at the entrance to the quarry
and the first stone was laid by Nelson Mandela
at a reunion of political prisoners.

It symbolises the foundation
of modern South Africa.


As we were leaving South Africa
the passport officer asked me
if I had enjoyed my stay
and I told him that we had visited
Robben Island on Freedom Day
He was very impressed

"That must have been something...

I am so proud to be South African
it is a wonderful country."

the carved rhino

We wandered around the the small church fair,
listening to the schoolchildren sing,
sampling the local produce,
looking at the crafts.

MasterM stopped at a display of wooden animals
"Did you carve all of these animals?"
She blushed and said that her brother carved them.
"Your brother? What is his name?"
She said her brother was called Innocent
"Did Innocent carve this lion? And this rhino?"
She said that Innocent had indeed carved them
"Innocent must have been busy!"
She agreed that Innocent had been very busy.
"Is it a white rhino or a black rhino?"
She said that she wasn't sure. It was a muddy rhino.
We all laughed and MasterM negotiated a good price.

I tell this story to remember the moment.

You might see a small carved rhino
but I see my son.
And he is laughing.

Kirstenbosch

It rained when we went to Kirstenbosch.

I had been looking forward to exploring
this spectacular botanical gardens
on the slopes of Table Mountain

but a dense mist enveloped the mountain
and we were caught in a torrential downpour.

As we ran for shelter
I felt quite philosophical...

I am sure it won't be long
before we are back.

Comfort Zone

I just want to make something totally clear...
we were camping.

Here is our tent...
with added nyala

It was very cold at night...
so we needed throws and suchlike

Candles, matches...
we were living close to nature

We tried to eat organically,
living off the fruits of the land,

and everyone should experience
flowers with their granola
once in their life.

There were opportunities
for meditation and relaxation

and water therapy
to help you centre yourself.

Oh lovely, lovely Botlierskop
you have the friendliest staff
and the best sundowners in Africa.

It was so hard to leave
and we are missing you already.
Thank you.

Game Drive

It turns out that I am terrible
at taking photos of wild animals.

I have discussed this
with MissM and suggested
that it might be the shutter speed
or the limited zoom on my camera.

MissM gave me one of 'those' looks
and suggested that
I use her photos instead.

This has saved you from
multiple pictures of giraffe backsides
and zebra with heads in the grass

Many thanks to MissM!

Tomorrow I will show off
my evocative shots of
beds, baths and food
just to rebuild my confidence.

PS: These penguins are from the mainland colony
at Boulders Beach just outside Cape Town.
When we showed Granny she was very interested
"Are they there on holiday?"