Sovereign Military Order of Malta

There is a small gate in a wall on the Aventine Hill. When you open it you can see down a long alley of trees which form a spectacular frame for the dome of St. Peters in the far distance. Tourists hang around in the hope that the gate will open so that they can catch the brief photo opportunity. The better informed tourists know that the view encompasses three sovereign territories: the Italian Republic, the Vatican City and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

We had the extraordinary honour of being shown around by His Sovereign Highness, Fra' Matthew Festing, Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta because long ago he was at school with the elder brother of one of my colleagues.

You might think that it would be difficult to imagine a Prince of the Church as a schoolboy but you would be wrong because His Sovereign Highness has an irreverent sense of humour and a wonderful chuckle.

The Sovereign Military Order of Malta is ancient and has its origins in the work of the Knights Hospitallers who looked after crusaders and pilgrims in the Holy Land.

It might seem that an Order with such history and pageantry would be irrelevant today but it has a very serious role with thousands of volunteers working all over the world providing first aid services, emergency medical care and specialist hospitals for maternity, leprosy sufferers and those with terminal illness.

Inside the gate there is a tranquil garden with views over Rome and an imposing palazzo which is used for diplomatic purposes. There is another palazzo in the centre of Rome which houses the archive of the Order.

The hidden gem is the chapel of the Knights of Malta, a masterpiece by Piranesi.

It was a place of beauty and history and Fra' Matthew talked of these with great affection but his responsibility is to the sick, regardless of colour or creed, and this takes priority over buildings and gardens.

If you are very fortunate you will meet a few people in your life who really make an impression - not because of their wealth or their position but because of the power of their personality. I only met Fra' Matthew briefly but it was an unforgettable privilege to listen to his commitment to the humanitarian mission of this historic Order.

San Giovanni in Laterano

Have you been to Rome?
If you have you will know
that there is something extraordinary
around every corner.

This is an excavation deep underneath
San Giovanni in Laterano,
the cathedral church of the diocese of Rome.

It is completely silent down there,
no noise at all from the Rome traffic.
The sensation is dreamlike
as  you walk along corridors,
passing entrances to dark spaces.

The corridors are lined with plaster fragments
from previous excavations in the 30s
and occasionally there is a small fresco,
a column base or a marble statue.

It was a barracks in Roman times
with a basement full of amphorae
which was partially built on top of houses
in a practical use of previous foundations.

Gradually your eye gets accustomed
to the angles and levels
and you piece together the landscape
so that the Roman soldiers
are on the edge of your consciousness
in the cool, silent, dusty space.

This past weekend we were visiting sites
associated with the British School at Rome
and our guides were experts from the BSR.
My background is in science not classics
and it made me realise how little I know.

A few more trips to Rome
and my interesting colleagues
will soon fix that little problem.

Villa Giulia

Let's flick through my pictures of the Villa Giuilia.

It is just across the road on the Via Flaminia
and the Director invited me to join
a special tour for the new award holders.
How could I say no?

Don't you love that scooter?
That's the thing about using a phone camera
you are never quite sure what will be in the picture.

They are not the best photos I have ever taken...
I was following an award winning photographer
with a huge camera and lens combination.
Guaranteed to make you feel inadequate.

This is the Nymphaeum for alfresco dining.
It is very mossy and subterranean
but I bet it was a great place for a party.
Apparently Pope Julius would arrive by boat
and settle down for an all day picnic.
I suppose that even Popes need to relax.

I was going to photograph the other Neptune
but the flagrant cornucopia
made it Quite Impossible.

You have to imagine the soundtrack:
gasps of pleasure from the architecture students
and sighs from the Etruscan students
who want to get inside and look at Etruscan treasures.

Such a cute lion.
Quite curvaceous and curly.
Next time I go to Rome I will photograph
a menagerie of stone animals.

You can skip this photo.
I have an obsession with topiary.
Don't panic...
it's not affecting everyday life...
yet.

This is the Villa Poniatowski
open to us by special arrangement.
We weren't allowed to photograph inside
so read this delightful blog post
by bluetortoiseconservation
Their photos are better than mine too.

at the end of the day

We went up on the roof
and watched the sun set
over the Villa Borghese
and then we went out
for a drink in a bar.

If that isn't nice,
I don't know what is.

I hadn't met these people
a week ago and now
I have new friends:
the Director's wife,
the archaeologist,
the librarian,
the assistant.

Warning! Fun times ahead!

Commuting - the Rome version

The British School at Rome
on Via Antonio Gramsci...

I am working/eating/sleeping here this week
so there is NO commuting.

Let's go out for a stroll before breakfast

Admire the sunrise and then
turn left and walk down the hill
to the Viale delle Belle Arti

past our next door neighbour,
Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna,

cross the road carefully,
up the flight of steps
and you are in the Villa Borghese.

What can we see?

Arches, columns,
statuary, lions...

picturesque gates...

random marble reliefs.

Right, that's enough fresh air,
it's almost time for breakfast.

And here we are,
back at the British School
without getting lost.

It's a miracle!

From my desk in Rome

Buongiorno!

1.
Yes.
I am in Rome.
It is sunny.
And dry.
But I am working very, very hard.
No, really, I am.

2.
I thought the taxi driver
was terrifyingly fast.
But my colleagues said
he was slower than usual.

3.
My bedroom overlooks the garden.
There are lemon trees.

4.
The bell rings for meal times.
breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Oh - and tea with shortbread.
We are a little piece of England here

5.
I had a tour of the building
which is not straightforward.
Corridors that end mysteriously
and stairs that go down
when you expect them to go up.
I hope to find my bedroom again
but am not optimistic.

6.
The librarian let me look at the rare books.
There is a whole wall of guide books
for Rome from 1576 onwards.
MrM would be in heaven.

7.
After lunch I went to the Borghese Gardens
Sunshine, views of Rome, ice creams
and beds of Paperwhite narcissi.
Bliss.

8.
I am struggling with computers
which have Italian keyboards
and Italian menu choices.

9.
An artist from Canada gave a presentation
about her project to create
a bright green inflatable bridge
in the classical style.
It seemed a good idea when she described it.

10.
I met a scholar from Washington
who is studying ritual sacrifice of animals
in the Etruscan period.
I will report back.

11.
I had dinner with four students
visiting the churches of Rome.
They were trying to remember
which saint went with which church.
But struggling.

12.
I had to get up at 4.30am
so I am very tired.
The coffee at dinner
had no effect.
Must sleep.