Thursday, 18 October 2012

Au Fil Du Temps

Pernes-les-Fontaines outside Avignon
has 52 fountains or perhaps 35 or 43
depending on which guide book you have.

We only discovered 5 fountains
in the warren of tiny streets
before we got distracted.

I saw it first, a few tables,
stylish glasses, young families
in the sunshine of the quiet square.

Au Fil Du Temps is tiny
with only 18 covers and so
there was an agonising pause
when we asked if they had a table.

My instincts were right...
the set menu was a joyful marriage
between the freshest of ingredients
and a playful approach to flavours.

A featherlight savoury mousse
apparently suspended in mid air
was followed by steamed celeraic,
the melting texture contrasting
with a granular quinoa dressing.

The fish was miraculously perfect.
Crisp skin, steaming hot,
flaking as the knife touched it.
I tried not to sigh with delight
but it was embarrassingly impossible.

And here is the dessert:
limpid green fennel poached in vanilla
draped on a soft bed of buttery cake
dotted with white chocolate,
studded with apricot puree.

It was a real thrill to stumble across
a restaurant which celebrates
a passion for food with such creativity.
The decor is utilitarian chic
and the service is quietly efficient.

If you visit Pernes-les-Fontaines
don't try to find all the fountains,
they will still be there next year.
Make a beeline for Au Fil Du Temps
and enjoy the hospitality of
this talented young couple
before they are lured away to new challenges.


  1. oh, my, a tiny bit of heaven...

  2. I have to give MrsM credit for this one really. Not a bad place to spend a lazy Saturday lunch

  3. What, no cottage pie?

  4. Have just read your post about the burglary and want to say two things. Thing first: I'm so sorry to hear this, it is horrible to discover that someone has been in your space. I know this from experience. Fortunately you do get over it though it can take a while. Thing second: thank you so much for your blog, I have been reading it for a while now but neglected to say thank you. I love your photos, your wit, your spare and wry writing style, and your sense of fun.

  5. Aren't these the small things that make your trip a wonderful experience!
    A discovery, out of nowhere, of such an amazing place. Sounds divine!

  6. Fennel as dessert? That sounds wonderful, what a find.

  7. I'm sorry, I'm now drooling. Sounds delicious and fennel for desert - how imaginative. mid morning snack needed now. :-)

  8. Rarely has a blog post made my mouth water quite so much!


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